Ichthyosaurus, the Fish Lizard

Small lizards for pets


Day time - 75-80℉
Basking - 85-90℉
Cool side - 65-75℉
*If temp falls below 65℉ at night, may need supplemental infrared or ceramic heat.

WILD HISTORY:

The green anole is native to the Southeastern United States. Other anole species are also found wild in the U.S.; however these are non-native species, most likely released pets that have survived and bred. Anoles are mainly terrestrial; inhabiting low lying bushes and plants. They can also be found basking on rocks and other warm spots out in the open. If you’ve ever tried to sneak up and catch these critters in the wild, you know how fast they can be!

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS:

The green anole is generally a green color, sometimes brown. If your anole is continually brown for an extended period of time, s/he may be ill. Males have a more distinct “dewlap”, which is the flap of skin extending off the throat. When challenged, excited or stressed; the anole will puff his dewlap out to show how large and in charge he is!

NORMAL BEHAVIOR & INTERACTION:

Some anoles can be tamed to sit on the hand, but being out of the cage generally stresses them. Stress can in turn cause illness. Anoles have a strong bite for a small lizard. When chased by a predator and grabbed by the tail, they will drop their tail (which will continue to wiggle to distract the predator) so they can escape. Green anoles change their color from bright green to dark brown, which has sometimes led people to confuse them with chameleons. They are in fact a very different species than chameleons, which are from a different part of the world. The Green Anole is more closely related to the iguana. When cold, Green anoles will turn brown to absorb heat more efficiently. In nature, a Green anole will turn a lighter shade of green when it's extremely hot to reduce the rate of heat absorption. After two male Green anoles fight for dominance, the winner will turn bright green, and the loser brown. NOTE: DO NOT house green anoles with other species due to the differences in care, temperatures, and the fact that some species can be highly stressed in the presence of other species.

FEEDING:

Insectivorous - live prey. Feed every other day. Protein sources such as: gut-loaded crickets, small mealworms and wax worms dusted with a supplement should make up the anole diet. Wild caught insects should never be fed, since they can carry disease. All insects should be gut loaded (fed a nutritious diet about 24-hours before being offered to your lizard - see our cricket care sheet). Be careful to feed the proper size prey for your lizard’s size. A good rule of thumb is that a cricket should be never be larger than the distance between the lizard's eyes, or the distance from its eyes to its nose. Feed as many insects as your lizard will eat in 3-5 minutes. If they do not eat all the insects, they can be left inside the enclosure, just make sure you put enough cricket food and moisture (orange slice) into the enclosure so the crickets don’t begin to chew on the anoles. It is normally recommended that excess, uneaten crickets be removed from a reptile enclosure, but considering the fact that your enclosure may be thickly planted, it may be impossible to remove them without stressing the lizards. Try to introduce the crickets slowly, so you can watch your lizards eat them before introducing more.

Source: www.petsuppliesplus.com

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